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Endless bowls of brown rice and impossibly blue waters were what I expected when I was assigned to investigate macrobiotics on a cruise to the Caribbean; turns out, I saw green and pearl gray in the ocean as well as blue, and ate a much more varied diet than brown

The nearly 1,000 of us who'd signed up for the fifth-annual Holistic Holiday at Sea, hosted by the educational foundation A Taste of Health (atasteofhealth.org) and cosponsored by VT, sailed out of Fort Lauderdale, Fla., in late March. Our group totaled about a third of the passengers aboard the 890-foot Costa Fortuna, a ship equipped to reduce pollution and keep untreated sewage and gray water out of the ocean.

My fellow Holistic Holidayers and I were in for a week of classes and cooking demonstrations, as well as gourmet, macrobiotically inspired vegan meals and optional excursions to the Caribbean islands of Puerto Rico, Saint Martin, Grand Turk, and Tortola. According to National Geographic, we were embarking on one of the world's 100 best vacations to enrich your life.

Along the way I learned principles to guide me in preparing and eating my veg meals macrobiotically.

Live Big The first day of the cruise I attended "Macrobiotics 101," presented by macrobiotic counselor and lecturer Warren Kramer (macrobioticsnewengland.com), who began with his definition of macrobiotics: Life is bigger than just getting by. We eat, ultimately, to support what we want to do in life, Kramer explained. Or as fellow macrobiotic educator Lino Stanchich (linostanchich.com) put it, "Eating is an act of creating your very life."

Such a vital thing as eating, in macrobiotic philosophy, is best done mindfully. That means giving attention to what we eat rather than shoveling it in our mouths sprawled in front of the TV. It also means taking the time to chew thoroughly, slowing us down so we eat less and enjoy it more, bringing out the sweetness, for example, in whole grains.

Additionally, mindful eating develops our intuition, which makes us more conscious of what we require for our well-being. "Macrobiotics isn't about a one-size-fits-all diet," Kramer declared. "It's about principles and how to apply them. The challenge for each of us is to find out what we need at this time in our lives to be healthy." There's no eating macrobiotically on autopilot.

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MEET YOUR SEA VEGGIES

Sea vegetables concentrate minerals and other nutrients at levels that leave landlubbing plants in the dust. In their book Japanese Foods That Heal, A Taste of Health's John and Jan Belleme provide a kitchen primer on these sea flora. A sampling:

KOMBU (aka kelp) The minerals visible as a dusting of white on the surface of this brown algae make it a superb flavoring agent. Add it to soups and stews, and include it when cooking beans so they're ready in less time and easier to digest.

WAKAME This relative of kombu is first soaked, then its fronds are sliced and added to soups and salads. Wild varieties are more tasty and tender.

HIJIKI (I After soaking this black cylindrical algae, saute it with sweet-tasting vegetables such as carrots, corn, or shiitake mushrooms. Or chop, and add it to salads or to cooked rice, millet, or barley.

NORI Sold in gleaming sheets, nori is most familiar as a sushi wrapping. Crumbled or cut into slivers, this calcium- and iron-rich seaweed is a nutritious garnish.

Balance Yin and Yang The "energy quality" of what we eat can either foster or hinder our well-being, notes David Briscoe of Macrobiotics America (macroamerica.com). Based on this "energy view" of food, the principles of yin and yang guide macrobiotic cooking and eating.

Yin and yang are complementary energies that are expressed in everything--including food and cooking styles-though relatively, rather than absolutely: Yin energy is expansive, yang energy contractive. Leafy vegetables that grow upward, such as leeks, kale, and bok choy, are relatively yin, while root veggies that grow downward into the earth, such as carrots and burdock, are relatively yang. Boiling vegetables in water enhances yin, whereas baking and roasting, exposing them to prolonged, high heat, enhances yang. Cooling salads are yin, warming stews yang.

Grasping the principles of yin and yang can help us prepare meals to adjust our energy levels. It can also help us avoid illness by limiting our intake of foods that upset our body's healthy balance, such as overly salty fare, which is extremely contracting (yang), and sugar and alcohol, which are excessively expansive (yin).

Synchronize with the Seasons Macrobiotic practice follows the principle of shindo fuji, translating from the Japanese as body and soil are one. "We're solar powered," Briscoe says about this connection. Plants release their energy, created from sunlight, to us as we eat.

Because our energy needs shift throughout the seasons, different cooking styles are preferable for different times of year: A speedier, yin style, such as blanching, suits sunny summer days, when quick refreshment is what we're after, whereas pressure cooking, which is more yang and builds strength deep in the body, serves us better in winter.

Cooking macrobiotically also means using vegetables at their peak, when they're in season and most naturally delicious.

Keep It Whole Eating foods in their whole form, according to macrobiotic thinking, not only primes us to think holistically, it also allows us to absorb energy from the food intact. Energy-rich whole grains--wheat, rice, millet, barley, oats, and corn-have traditionally been staples worldwide. Local vegetables have also been eaten for millennia to promote health and vitality. Whole grains and vegetables form the core of macrobiotic practice, supplemented for vegetarians by beans, nuts, seeds, and fruits.

Today, scientists are confirming that individual substances in what we eat, such as antioxidant phytochemicals, evidently protect us against disease not in isolation, but in combination as they're naturally found in whole foods.

Bring It Home What contrasted most from my usual veg fare during my Holistic Holiday were the breakfasts of miso soup and cooked whole grains. Also a departure were the daily servings of mineral-rich sea vegetables.

Back home in California, I'm following the advice of macrobiotic counselor and lecturer Denny Waxman (dennywaxman.com) and adding to what I normally eat, rather than obsessing about what to avoid: I'm snacking on sheets of nori and tossing kombu into the cooking pot. And if I can't quite manage miso soup in the morning, I can begin the day with a bowl of oatmeal, and anticipate being adventurous by breakfasting on wheat berry or quinoa.

"Please experiment," cruise chef Mark Hanna's teacher, Michio Kushi, a pioneer of macrobiotics in America, told him. Even without the sea literally moving beneath my feet-confirming lectures about life being in flux--I'll keep on experimenting, in hopes of honing my intuition about what's on my plate.

Seitan Satay with
Peanut Sauce

SERVES 8 | VEGAN

Spicy peanut sauce and lemon
wedges add flavor to this vegan
version of an Indonesian favorite.
The recipe here calls for cooking the
skewered seitan in the oven after
marinating, but feel free to pan-fry
or barbecue.

SEITAN SATAY

  1/4  cup low-sodium soy sauce
    2  Tbs. toasted sesame oil
1 1/2  tsp. grated fresh ginger
I lb.  seitan, drained and
       cut into chunks
   2   medium cucumbers, peeled
       and quartered lengthwise
   Lemon wedges, for garnish

PEANUT SAUCE

 1/2  cup creamy peanut butter
   2  Tbs. tahini
   2  Tbs. low-sodium soy sauce
   1  Tbs. toasted sesame oil
   1  tsp. hot sesame oil
   1  tsp. minced fresh ginger

1. To make Seitan Satay: Soak g
wood skewers in water 30 minutes.
Combine soy sauce, sesame oil, and
ginger in resealable plastic bag. Add
seitan; seal, and shake to coat.
Refrigerate 1 hour, or overnight.

2. Preheat oven to 375[degrees]F. Coat
baking sheet with nonstick cooking
spray. Drain seitan chunks, and
thread onto skewers. Place skewers
on prepared baking sheet, and bake
10 to 15 minutes, or until seitan is
browned and firm.

3. Meanwhile, make Peanut Sauce:
Blend all ingredients and 1/2 cup
water in blender until smooth.
Season with salt and pepper, and
transfer to serving bowl.

4. To serve: Place cucumber quarters
on serving plates. Set skewers on top.
Garnish with lemon wedges, and
pass Peanut Sauce for dipping.

PER SERVING: 223 CAL; 21 G PROT; 135 G TOTAL FAT
(2.5 G SAT FAT); 8 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 276 MG SOD;
2 G FIBER; 2 G SUGARS

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Soba Salad with Miso Vinaigrette

SERVES 8 | VEGAN | 30 MINUTES OR FEWER

White miso, the mildest version of the
soybean paste, is slightly sweet, and less
salty than brown or red miso. We offer a
range of amounts for it here, depending
on how intense you like the flavor.

    8  oz. soba noodles
  1-2  Tbs. white miso paste
    1  Tbs. toasted sesame oil
    1  Tbs. rice vinegar
    1  tsp. pickled ginger
    2  carrots, cut into matchsticks
    1  head radicchio, thinly sliced
    2  green onions, chopped
1 1/2  sheets toasted nori,
       cut into thin strips
  2    Tbs. toasted sesame seeds

1. Cook soba noodles according to
package directions. Rinse under cold
water, drain, and place in large bowl.

2. Blend miso, sesame oil, rice vinegar,
pickled ginger, and 3 Tbs. water in
blender until smooth. Stir carrots,
radicchio, green onions, nori, sesame
seeds, and miso mixture into soba
noodles. Serve cold.

PER SERVING: 151 CAL; 5G PROT; 3.5 G TOTAL FAT (0.5 G
SAT FAT); 26 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 3.64 MG SOD; 3 G FIBER;
3 G SUGARS

Sea Palm Salad
SERVES 8 | VEGA.

A fine-strand seaweed, sea palm adds
taste and crunch to salads. If you can't
find sea palm, try this salad with dulse or
cooked, sliced wakame, which are
equally delectable sea vegetables.

  1  1-oz. pkg. sea palm fronds,
    rinsed well and drained
  2  Tbs. white miso
  2  Tbs. cider vinegar
  1  Tbs. low-sodium soy sauce
  1  medium cucumber,
     seeded and sliced
  1  cup sliced radishes
1/4  cup finely diced red onion

1. Soak sea palm fronds in large bowl
of cold water 30 minutes, or until
softened. Transfer to saucepan, and cover
with water. Bring water to a boil, reduce
heat to medium, and simmer 20 minutes.
Drain, and rinse under cold water.

2. Whisk together miso, vinegar, and soy
sauce in large bowl. Add cucumber,
radishes, red onion, and sea palm fronds,
and toss to coat.

PER SERVING: 28 CAL; 2 G PROT; 0 G TOTAL FAT
(0 G SAT FAT); 5 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 264 MG SOD;
2 G FIBER; 3 G SUGARS

Plum Crumble
SERVES 8 | VEGAN

This dessert can be prepared with
whatever fruits are in season. We used
plums, but you could also choose apples,
pears, or frozen berries.

Recipe by Carolyn Trumpeter

PLUM FILLING
  1/3  cup apple juice
    1  Tbs. arrowroot powder
    6  cups thinly sliced plums (3 lb.)
  1/4  tsp. ground nutmeg

CRUMBLE
   1  cup whole rolled oats
   1  cup whole-wheat pastry flour
 1/4  tsp. ground cinnamon
 1/2  tsp. salt
 1/3  cup corn oil
 1/4  cup rice syrup

1. Preheat oven to 350[degrees]F. Coat 8-inch
square baking pan with oil and flour, and
set aside.

2. To make Plum Filling: Place apple
juice in mixing bowl. Add arrowroot,
and stir to dissolve. Add plums, and toss
gently. Transfer to prepared pan, sprinkle
with nutmeg, and set aside.

3. To make Crumble: Combine oats, flour,
cinnamon, and salt in large bowl. Rub oil
into mixture with your fingers, then drizzle
in rice syrup while mixing with fork.
Distribute evenly over Plum Filling.

4. Bake 20 to 30 minutes, or until
topping is golden and fruit is bubbling.
Serve warm.

PER SERVING: 257 CAL; 4 G PROT; 8 G TOTAL FAT
(1 G SAT FAT); 44 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 163 MG
SOD; 5 G FIBER; 19 G SUGARS

Basmati and Wild Rice over Acorn
Squash with Braised Vegetables
SERVES 81 VEGA,

Any type of winter squash-butternut,
kabocha, delicata, red kuri, even small
pumpkins-can be used in this hearty main
course. Offering a wide variety of flavors,
the recipe celebrates the harvest season.

ACORN SQUASH
   1  Tbs. olive oil
   1  tsp. maple syrup
   1  tsp. low-sodium soy sauce
 1/4  tsp. ground cinnamon
   2  medium acorn squash,
      quartered and seeded

BASMATI AND WILD RICE
  1/4  cup pine nuts
1 1/2  cups basmati-wild rice mix,
       such as Lundberg Farms
    1  Tbs. olive oil
    1  small red onion, diced (3/4 cup)
    2  cloves garlic, minced (2 tsp.)

BRAISED VEGETABLES
   2 Tbs. olive oil
   1 head fennel, cut into
     chunks (1 1/2 cups)
   2 cups baby carrots
   2 cups sugar snap peas
   1 Tbs. capers, drained
 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
     Cranberry sauce for
     garnish, optional

1. To make Acorn Squash: Preheat oven
to 350[degrees]F. Coat baking sheet with cooking
spray, or line with parchment paper.
Whisk together olive oil, maple syrup,
soy sauce, cinnamon, and 2 Tbs. water
in small bowl. Brush inside and edges
of acorn squash wedges; place on
prepared baking sheet. Bake 30 to 40
minutes, or until squash is soft enough
to prick with tip of knife. Keep warm.

2. To make Basmati and Wild Rice:
Toast pine nuts in small skillet over
medium-low heat 3 to 5 minutes, or
until browned and fragrant, shaking pan
often. Set aside. Cook rice according to
package directions. Set aside. Heat olive
oil in large skillet over medium heat.
Saute onion and garlic in olive oil
3 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Stir in
rice and pine nuts, and season with
salt and pepper. Keep warm.

3. To make Braised Vegetables: Heat olive
oil in Dutch oven or large saucepan over
medium heat. Saute fennel in oil 10
minutes, or until softened. Add carrots,
and saute 5 minutes more, or until carrots
begin to brown. Add 2 cups water, cover,
and steam vegetables 10 to 15 minutes,
or until soft. Add snap peas, and steam
2 to 3 minutes more. Season with salt
and pepper, and stir in capers:

4. To serve: Place 1 Acorn Squash wedge
on each plate. Spoon Basmati and Wild
Rice into center of each squash quarter,
and top with Braised Vegetables.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley, and add
a dollop of cranberry sauce, if desired,

PER SERVING: 295 CAL; 6 G PROT; 10 G TOTAL FAT
(1 G SAT FAT)/47 G CARB; 0 MG CHOL; 313 MG SOD;
6 G FIBER; 8 G SUGARS

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A day IN THE LIFE

Sample menus for breakfast, lunch, and dinner while on a Holistic Holiday at Sea

BREAKFAST

Miso Soup with Mochi

Soft Rice & Pumpkin Seeds

Steamed Bok Choy & Leeks

Apple Compote

LUNCH

Seitan Satay with Peanut Sauce *

Curried Red Lentil Soup

Sea Palm Salad *

Vegetable Fried Rice with Yuba

Plum Crumble *

DINNER

Sesame-encrusted Tempeh

Cream of Cauliflower Soup

Soba Salad with Miso Vinaigrette *

Basmati and Wild Rice over Acorn Squash with Braised Vegetables *

Key Lime Pie

* Recipes on pages 84-87. More recipes from Holistic Holiday at Sea cruises can be found in Greens and Grains on the Deep Blue Sea Cookbook, available at amazon.com.

HOW TO MAKE EASY, EVERYDAY MISO SOUP

Macrobiotic practice prescribes a daily dose of soup made from miso, a fermented soybean paste, as a nourishing digestive aid. Here we offer a foolproof recipe for a single serving.

Start with 1 1/2 cups water or vegetable broth and I tablespoon miso paste. Bring water or low-sodium vegetable broth to a boil. Remove from heat, and stir in miso until it "blooms," or white swirls begin to appear.

For a heartier soup, simmer 2 tablespoons each of carrots, leeks, and wakame (seaweed)in the broth 10 minutes before stirring in the miso.

Garnish with green onion and baked mochi (rice flour dumplings, shown) or diced firm tofu, if desired. Eat mindfully, and enjoy!

--MARY MARGARET CHAPPELL

RECIPES BY Mark Hanna

PHOTOGRAPHY Richard Jung

FOOD STYLING Sue Henderson

PROP STYLING Roisin Nield