Retailer wine selections.

Publication: Cheers
Date: Friday, July 1 2005

The Cheers National Wine Panel recommends a lineup of top moderately prices white wines.

This year, Cheers presents the selections of our wine panel organized not by varietal or region, but by price. At a time when sourcing good quality wines at value prices is increasingly difficult,

we think it's particularly useful to share the insights of our panel and spread the word that wines can be appreciated at any price point. This month, the panel looks at white wines with a retail price between $15 and $30. As always, these selections include brief tasting notes, a numerical rating and the wine's suggested retail price (which varies market to market).

FIVE STARS

***** (95) ZD Chardonnay 2002 (California). A beautiful full-bodied chardonnay with ripe apricot, honey and toasty notes; well balanced with great forward fruit and acidity; creamy. ($28)

***** (95) Zaca Mesa Roussanne 2003 (California). On the nose are aromas of apricot, figs, honey and spice that fill the glass; a lingering finish with a touch of minerality; enjoy with grilled halibut or rosemary roasted chicken. ($23)

***** (94) Bodegas Nekeas Vega Sindoa Chardonnay 2003 (Spain). From Spain's famous Navarra region; barrel-fermented in American and Allier Barriques; simply lovely with a soft, buttery texture and hints of pear, apple and butterscotch; just enough acidity for a long, clean finish. ($16)

***** (94) Vero Chardonnay Bourgogne 2002 (France). A great Bourgogne blanc; best of all worlds, with minerality from Chablis, richness of Meursault, elegance from Puligny and cream from Chassagne. ($17)

***** (94) Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2003 (California). Well-balanced and silky with supple texture and a long finish; layers of tropical fruit with oak in the background. ($28)

***** (94) Jordan Russian River Chardonnay 2002 (California). Delightfully clean and crisp with apple, pear and peach notes, lots of vanilla and cream and a satisfying finish; nicely matched with cold lobster salads. ($29)

***** (94) Long Vineyards Chardonnay 2001 (California). A Burgundian-style chardonnay with aromas of pear and apple; in the mouth the wine displays layer upon layer of flavors and suggests grand cru white burgundy, but at a fraction of the cost. ($25)

***** (93) Clos St. Michel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2003 (France). The crisp apple and tropical fruit on the nose are only a hint of the richness that caresses the palate; notes of beeswax, toast and cream intermingle with pear, apple and pineapple, balanced with a crisp acidity that makes this a perfect foil for rich seafood and poultry dishes; the finish is long and soft, providing final hints of citrus and spring flowers. ($25)

***** (93) Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis, Montmains Premier Cru 2003 (France). Benchmark Chablis from Burgundy's most consistent producer; with a bucket of oysters and a bottle of this wine, it doesn't get much better. ($28)

***** (93) St. Innocent Anden Vineyard Chardonnay 2002 (Oregon). Produced from nine-year old Dijon clone vines, this wine displays aromas of toast, butter and spices; sappy, satin-textured and medium-bodied; a broad-expressioned wine packed with rich layers of spicy minerals, nutmeg, buttered pears and toast. ($22)

***** (93) Domaine Michel Picard Chassagne 1999 (Montrachet, France) Brilliant straw-yellow color: aromas of vanilla and toast; will pair nicely with buttery, soft cheese or dishes made with rich, creamy sauces; spectacular chardonnay. ($40)

***** (93) Clos Du Bois Reserve Chardonnay 2003 (California). Rich, straw color with hints of light green; ripe apple and pear aromas with hints of stone fruits and citrus; in the mouth, lush tropical fruits, such as ripe mango, melons and oranges, as well as sweet oak flavor with hints of toffee and vanilla; creamy mouthfeel to the finish. ($19)

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***** (94) King Estate "Domaine" Pinot Gris 2003 (Oregon). Certified organically grown; stone fruits and citrus peel flavors dominate the palate, layered and textured; fleshy fruit but not fatty, with pear, papaya and mixed tropical highlights. ($16)

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***** (93) Tramin "Nussbaumer" Gewurztraminer 2002 (Trentino, Italy). World-class gewurztraminer; dry, elegant with subtle florals and nuance. ($27)

***** (93) Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve 2001 (Alsace). No oak, no residual sugar to give complete dryness; flavors of peaches and pear; high acidity. ($21)

***** (93) Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru 2002 (Alsace). A racy, liquid mineral; lime-scented nose; light-bodied, showing wonderful depth of stone, lemon and quartz-like flavors. ($40)

***** (92) Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Chardonnay 2002 (California). Affordable and "findable"; quality chardonnay for Kistler fans; rich and creamy. ($30)

***** (92) Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay 2001 (California). A classy, complex wine that continues to develop in the glass; a melange of flavors, from apple to mango to butterscotch, all on a creamy, well-balanced frame. ($30)

***** (92) Domaine Loberger Gewurztraminer 2002 (Alsace). Bring on the Thai food; a wonderfully balanced wine, full of wild rose, lychee and a touch of sweetness. ($17)

***** (92) Chateau St. Michelle/Dr. Loosen Eroica Riesling 2003 (Washington State). From the Columbia Valley, a cascade of flavors of apple, pineapple, apricot and minerals; off-dry with intense acid. ($26)

***** (92) Baumard "Trie Speciale" Savennieres 2001 (France). Chenin blanc in its sublime form, round and rich; like Burgundy somehow transferred to the Loire Valley. ($30)

***** (92) Selbach Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 2002 (Mosel, Germany). Johannes Selbach is one of the few-great artisans of Riesling; this late-harvest Riesling comes from the best part of the vineyards at Bernkastel and shows fresh green apple and peach notes, a rich mineral middle palate and fresh acidity; the moderate residual sugar makes it a perfect match for Asian cuisine. ($18)

***** (92) Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvee Romanus 2003 (Alsace, France). This voluptuous, rich pinot gris from the heart of Alsace is a powerful statement to its terroir; ripe tree fruit dominates, with notes of apple, peach and pear, with hints of lemongrass and mineral intermingling on the palate, providing crispness and a touch of spice; a balanced, elegant finish; match with shellfish and whitefish dishes. ($19)

***** (92) Kupelweiser Pinot Grigio Alto Aldige 2002 (Italy). This pinot grigio, produced in the South Tyrol portion of Alto Adige, is rich in body and fruit extract with a mild yet firm acidity; the nose has hints of spice, lime tree blossom, pear and banana, while the palate provides crisp apple, pear and notes of citrus; the lingering finish closes with flavors of citrus and Asian spice; serve as an aperitif, or with light seafood dishes. ($16)

***** (92) Selaks Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (New Zealand). Aromas of white fruits, gooseberries and melon can be detected in the nose; it reveals a medium-bodied, satin-textured personality; fresh and spicy, the wine displays good depth to its pear, apple and gooseberry flavors; clean, snappy finish. ($15)

***** (92) Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino 2002 (Italy). Medium-bodied with great acidity; aromas of banana and flavors of pear and green apple; tons of character, perfect for warm weather. ($20)

***** (92) Sterling North Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (California). Bright, pale straw color; fresh and floral with aromas of nectarines, melons and grapefruit; pleasingly full with ripe fruit and subtle acidity for a dry, clean finish. ($15)

FOUR STARS

**** (91) Domaine Chandon Carneros Chardonnay 2002 (California). Burgundian winemaking approach; clean, crisp, complex aromas with notes of apple, white peach, creme brulee and subtle oak; creamy texture balanced by citrus notes and a flinty character typical of Carneros; flavors of fig and honey build through a long, harmonious finish. ($24)

**** (91) Pieropan Soave Classico 2003 (Italy). Not your ordinary soave; medium straw yellow in color with the aromatic-scents of apple and blossom; rich like a chardonnay yet delicate; a finish that lingers; well made and a great value. ($15)

**** (91) J Russian River Pinot Gris 2004 (California). Crisp and energetic; very Alsatian in style with more depth and concentration; hints of honeysuckle on the nose, mouth-filling flavors and a great finish. ($19)

**** (91) Sonoma Cutrer Russian River Chardonnay 2003 (California). Crisp and clean with good weight in the mid-palate; melons come to mind, overlaid by a lemon-citrus flavor, drifting onward to an even more buoyant lemon zest finish of exceptional length and complexity; try with lobster risotto or shellfish. ($18)

**** (91) Vincent Girardin Rully Premier Cru Les Cloux (France). Medium bodied; lush and intense; a wine of exceptional ripeness that leads to a long, balanced finish. ($20)

**** (91) Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (California). Awesome acidity for a Californian sauvignon blanc; grassy and herbaceous notes on the front and finishes with melon and citrus notes. ($20)

**** (91) Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (New Zealand). White grapefruit, lemon-ice and white peach set the stage; steely lemon and grapefruit flavors with a lychee edge; picking up a grassy note towards the clean and refreshing finish. ($25)

**** (91) Artesa Carneros Chardonny 2002 (California). Rich and fulfilling; full of butter and a hint of smokiness; a great compliment to many food pairings. ($15)

**** (90) Toasted Head Russian River Chardonnay 2003 (California). The "untoasted" version, more elegant with bright apple/pear fruit; easy to drink; long finish. ($15)

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**** (90) Caymus Conundrum 2003 (California). A tropical explosion loaded with mango, pineapple and kiwi; an expansive palate with tropical flavors atop citrus tones and a hint of vanilla in a creamy, yet lively structure. ($22)

**** (90) Michel-Schlumberger Dry Creek Chardonnay 2003 (California). A spicy core of pears and apple flavors with nuances of toasty oak and nutmeg; a treat with veal, chicken and shellfish dishes. ($25)

**** (90) S.A. Prum Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett 2003 (Germany). From one of Mosel's oldest family estates; a nose of fresh flowers, lemon-tree and peach lead to flavors of not-quite-ripe melon and citrus with classic Mosel "slatiness"; off-dry and crisp. ($17)

**** (90) Lambert Bridge Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (California). The wine has 97% sauvignon blanc with 3% viognier; elegant with a subtle, flinty aroma; round and full on the palate, not grassy; rather Graves-like in style; great length; superb. ($17)

**** (90) Conti Formentini Pinot Grigio DOC 2003 (Italy). Atypical for this grape from this zone; a creamy texture with subtle flavors of melon, peach and vanilla; the finish is long with perfect acidity and a hint of minerality; sheer elegance. ($16)

**** (90) Kunde Estate Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (California). Flavors and scents of fresh grapefruit, peaches, melon and mint; crisp, bright and refreshing; a touch of semillon and viognier add softness and depth. ($17)

**** (90) Elk Cove Pinot Gris 2004 (Oregon). Hints of honeysuckle and white flowers along with pear, apple and citrus; fresh and clean; pair with grilled and smoked salmon. ($18)

**** (90) Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2001 (California). Aromas of grilled nuts, coconut and citrus; wood spice mouth feel; firm finish. ($25)

**** (90) Jigsaw Pinot Gris 2002 (Oregon). This crisp, dry white wine from Oregon delivers aromas of peaches, mango and vanilla; the flavors are crisp and lemony; perfect with oysters, clams and shrimp cock-tail. ($15)

**** (90) Hastwell & Lightfoot Viognier 2002 (Australia). Very small production, the essence of apricots; smell the apricots and white peaches, then taste nectarines with a soft finish; try with chicken, scallops, after dinner. ($23)

**** (90) Terradora di Paolo Greco di Tufo, Campania 2001 (Italy). Aromatic and fragrant characters of almond, mineral and citrus with biting acidity. ($21)

**** (90) Karl Erbes Riesling, Spatlese 2003 (Germany). Great floral aromas with great balance; fresh honeyed peach on the palate, which continues into a long finish. ($18)

**** (90) Hewitson Dry Muscadelle (Australia). Low alcohol, light bodied white; fresh, clean fruit flavors; a great cocktail/party wine. ($16.50)

**** (89) Beringer Knights Valley Alluvium Blanc 2002 (California). Light gold color; aromas of butterscotch, fig and toasty spice; medium bodied, plush and generous with richness and depth to apple, peach, citrus and subtle oak flavors; good acidity; long, rich finish. ($16)

**** (89) Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay 2003 (California). This graceful chardonnay possesses an elegant nose followed by honeydew melon and lingering ripe fruit flavors. ($24)

**** (89) Edna Valley Chardonnay 2003 (California). A zesty white wine with alluring peach aromas that bear some resemblance to a great French grand cru; it has a beautiful texture and interesting aromatic complexity. ($17)

**** (89) Morgan Metallico Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay 2003 (California). Unoaked; no malolactic fermentation; a really nice chardonnay; if you want to know what the grape really tastes like, try this; crisp, dry pretty finish. ($18)

**** (89) Fess Parker Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2003 (California). Multiple vineyard sources for complexity; pear, citrus, light toast, butter and coconut. ($18.50)

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**** (89) Brolia Gavi La Meirana 2003 (Italy). This Gavi di Gavi is a great example of what good, white wine from Piedmont is all about; flavors of almonds, citrus and cloves with a nice finish that allows it to stand up to pork, turkey and seafood dishes. ($16)

**** (89) Wildhurst Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2004 (California). Like grapefruit in a bottle; bright tropical fruit and crisp acidity make it a pleasure to drink with grilled fish or shellfish. ($12)

**** (89) Step Rd Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Adelaide Hills (Australia). Pale, almost clear yellow, with a mild, citrusy bouquet of melon and tangerine; medium bodied, rich and supple, it possesses tasty citrus flavors and some lemon-lime acidity that keeps it nicely dry; long and flavorful finish. ($15)

**** (89) Seebrich Riesling Spatlese 2002, Niersteiner Olberg (Germany). Medium yellow/gold, with a full, warm bouquet that displays the distinctive slate/mineral nose of the Rheinhessen; ripe and rich on the palate, with sweet fruit flavors of pear, citrus, orange peel and white grapes; good balancing acidity turns it drier leading to the finish; wonderful and versatile food wine. ($20)

**** (89) Bastianich "Vespa" 2002 (Friuli, Italy). Nicely made from three grapes: sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and picolit; crisp, clean with a nice fruitiness on the finish. ($26)

**** (89) Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay 2003 (California). Pale yellow, with aromas of baked pear and red apple dusted with vanilla bean; rich, baked apple tones speckled with sweet oak and butterscotch. ($19)

**** (88) Bertani Soave Classico Superiore 2001 (Veneto, Italy). Bertani adds a splash of chardonnay to the garganega that adds structure to the wine. The wine shows melon and apple aromas and flavors, a plump middle and firm acidity on the end, a rarity in soave. It's just right for vongole and calamari. ($15)

**** (88) Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuisse 2003 (France). All chardonnay, smoky and toasty, this elegant, light to medium bodied wine with spiced, mineral flavors has a pleasing personality; wonderful with seafood and chicken dishes. ($22)

**** (88) Kalin Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 1996 (California). This is the current vintage for this aged beauty; Graves-like with honey and cedar notes prevailing with surprisingly bright acidity. ($32)

**** (88) R. Stuart "Big Fore" Pinot Gris 2003 (Oregon). Very fresh and clean with tangerine, lemon and melon; peach and pear on the finish; pair with light seafood dishes. ($17)

**** (88) X Winery Los Carneros Chardonnay 2002 (California). Crisp, green apple and lemon laced with butterscotch and vanilla; medium oak, great acidity/balance; similar to a white burgundy. ($17)

**** (88) Donna Fugata Anthilia 2003 (Sicily, Italy). From grapes rarely seen outside of Sicily; apple, mineral notes with a little white pepper in the finish; medium-bodied. ($18)

**** (87) Domaine Matrot Chardonnay 2002 (France). This chardonnay has a golden, homey nose with fresh, delicious fruit and crisp acidity. ($16)

**** (87) Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio 2003 (Alto Adige, Italy). They have been making great pinot grigios before most people knew what the grape was; honey and almond flavors with a delicate balance of peaches and melons and a good finish; works well with cream sauces and white meats. ($16)

**** (87) Mad Fish Chardonnay 2003 (Australia). Pale yellow, with a medium-full bouquet that shows off some tart apple and pear aromas; mild apple, pear and citrus flavors are bright and juicy, and the medium-length finish echoes these flavors nicely. ($15)

**** (87) Goldwater New Dog Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (New Zealand). This sauvignon blanc has grassy and vegetal notes; the finish lingers and fulfills the experience; perfect served with grilled shish kabobs with lots of pepper. ($19)

**** (87) Simi Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (California). Citrusy in the nose and on the palate with good acidity and a zing in the finish. ($17)

**** (86) 2001 Mer et Soleil Chardonnay 2001 (California). Big and rich vanilla tones steal the show, with hints of green apple; a comforting and wide mouthfeel delivers pear, butter and more vanilla; a citrus tone prior to the lush finish. ($34)

**** (86) Weingut Robert Weil Riesling, Trocken, 2002 (Germany). Classically styled Rheinian riesling; peach, apple, lemon flavors with a fruity but dry finish. ($18)

Retailer wine selections.

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