All-star chardonnays.

Publication: Cheers
Date: Wednesday, March 1 2006

From big and oaky to subtle, supple and light, the broad appeal of chardonnay makes it a perennial favorite. The Cheers Wine Panel recommends chardonnays from California, Washington state, Oregon, Australia, France, Italy, South Africa, Chile and New Zealand in a range of price points.

Brief tasting notes, ratings and a suggested retail price is included for each wine; prices may vary by market.

FIVE STARS

***** (97) Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bourgogne Blanc 1999 (France). Declassified Musigny Blanc; lemon zest, creme brulee and baked apple pie nuances dance in the nose; mouth-watering flavors star anise, limestone and pineapple; extraordinary wine. ($85)

***** (96) Mayacamas Vineyards Chardonnay 2001 (California). Chablis-like, with razor sharp acidity, gunflint aromatics and stone fruits. ($45)

***** (95) Henri Darnat Clos Richemont Meursault 2003 (France). Well-presented elegance; cream, caramel, vanilla and a touch of citrus on the finish; well worth the price. ($85)

***** (94) Chateau Montelena Napa Chardonnay 2003 (California). Burgundian in style; crisp and concentrated; abundant lemon/lime fruit, with hints of pears, white currants and green apples. ($32)

***** (94) Fritz Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2004 (California). Super-juicy, fat and rich, with a ripe pear, melon, pineapple, peach and coconut flavors, flecked with oak; strapping acidity; high in extract and a long finish; serve with mushroom risotto, veal chicken in cream sauce or even lobster. ($22)

***** (94) Fred's Hands Blakeman Vineyard Chardonnay 2002 (California). A nose of toasty oak, butter, yeast and spice; round and creamy on the palate; concentrated flavors of dried apricot, hazelnut, nutmeg and butter; superb. ($25)

***** (94) Big Ass Sonoma Chardonnay 2004 (California). Like its famous cabernet sauvignon partner, this chardonnay is really big: fat, oily, oaky and buttery; lots of butterscotch and honey intertwined with apples and pears and tropical fruit, with lots of backbone. ($20)

***** (94) Vega Sindoa Chardonnay 2003 (Spain). A world-class chardonnay from an unlikely area; fermented and aged sur-lie in Allier barrels; harmonious and elegant; lightly creamy with nuances of pineapple, allspice and lightly toasted oak. ($16)

***** (93) Verget Saint-Veran 2004 (France). A classic Saint-Veran with a bouquet of under-ripe apple and pear and a hint of citrus and minerality; these components continue on the mouth and finish with steely acidity. ($17)

***** (93) Dusted Valley Old Vine Chardonnay 2004 (Washington state). A clean, vibrant wine with a citric bouquet; well structured and balanced with a palate arousing liveliness that is maintained from first sip to last swallow; this well-made white is a departure from some of the overblown chardonnay coming out of California. ($23)

***** (93) Dutton-Goldfield Dutton Ranch Chardonnay 2003 (California). Juicy fruit flavors of tangerine and lemon with hints of lychee nut and mineral followed by subtle spicy oak. ($27)

***** (93) Michel Colin-Deleger & Fils, Saint-Aubin "Les Champlots" Premier Cru 2002 (France). From a lesser-known area of the Cote de Beaune comes this real eye-opener, with full and rich opulent fruit; silky and viscous, a knockout that would make any lobster very happy. ($40)

***** (92) Kistler Winery McCrea Vineyard Sonoma Chardonnay 2000 (California). Concentrated fruit, perfumed and floral with layers of fig and nectarine; an elegant chardonnay with a very long finish. ($50)

***** (92) Gaja Rossj-Bass Langhe, DOC 2003 (Italy). Truly a world-class chardonnay from Italy; touch of oak, but very well balanced with nice acidity and great finesse. ($55)

***** (92) Courtney Benham Napa Valley Chardonnay 2004 (California). Rich and buttery aromas are the precursors to a toasty oak flavor tempered by a hint of caramel, peach and pear; supple and full flavored, this wine bursts forward with fruit and oaky spice flavors, concluding with a long, lingering finish; pairs nicely with poultry, mild game and lean pork dishes; a wonderful value. ($25)

***** (92) Columbia Crest Reserve Chardonnay 2003 (Washington state). Ripe, rich aromas with white pepper and spice; intense flavors of green apple balanced nicely with toasty oak; creamy with spice notes on the long finish. ($30)

***** (92) ZD Chardonnay 2004 (California). This full-bodied chardonnay has beautiful aromas of pineapple, vanilla, pear and lemon; delivering pineapple, pear and sweet vanilla, along with a creaminess on the palate; well balanced with the natural acidity. ($29)

***** (92) Sterling Vineyards Winery Lake Carneros Chardonnay 2002 (California). Straw color; bursting with pineapple on the mid-palate; creamy finish to round out a fine wine. ($26)

FOUR STARS

**** (91) Robert Stemmler Three Clones Carneros Chardonnay 2001 (California). A winery known for its pinot noir has hit the bull's eye with this chardonnay; hints of apple and citrus in the nose with layer upon layer of complexity reminiscent of a fine white burgundy yet at a fraction of the cost. ($23)

**** (91) Hess Collection Chardonnay 2004 (California). Warm and toasty aromas of hazelnut, green apple and pear; vanilla brulee flavors balanced out by citrus undertones. ($20)

**** (91) Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay 2003 (California). Sweet aromas of pear tart and a citrus melange; full-bodied, with vibrant citrus flavors accented by toasty vanilla tones, with a warm and fuzzy, lengthy finish. ($40)

**** (91) Mt. Eden Vineyards "Estate Bottled" Chardonnay 2002 (California). Elegant and understated; while aged in barrique, the oak and butter flavors are well integrated and balanced; a great find in the ever-expanding universe of California chardonnay. ($38)

**** (87) Francis Coppola Diamond Series Chardonnay 2004 (California). Light gold color; apple-pear aroma; apple and pear flavor with some oak; a moderate finish. ($15)

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**** (88) Lorenzo Petroni Vineyards Green Island Vineyard Napa Valley Chardonnay 2004 (California). Rich, intense, roundly textured and fleshy; a typical California chardonnay offering aromas and flavors of vanilla cream, fig, lemon, almonds, brown butter, with whispers of toasty, nutty oak; tangy acidity; pairs well with grilled veal chop. ($32)

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**** (91) Petaluma "Tiers" Chardonnay 2001 (Australia). Big, opulent and brawny; buckets of flavors of honey, butterscotch, ripe pear, hazelnut, vanilla and fig; lots of oak and a lengthy, lemony finish; plenty of complexity. ($60)

**** (90) Gallo of Sonoma Two Rock Vineyard Chardonnay 2003 (California). Unoaked chardonnay with bracing acidity and a crisp finish; blend of Granny Smith apples, white pear, tropical fruit and fruit cocktail (minus the cherry), with whispers of flint, lemon and minerals; lean, tight structure and finely etched flavor matches well with Dover sole, jerk chicken or pork. ($28)

**** (90) Montes Alpha Casablanca Valley Chardonnay 2004 (Chile). Medium gold, this wine shows oaky overtones on a lightly fruity bouquet that has a hint of overripe fruit; it really picks up on the full-bodied palate, which is rich and ripe without being overbearing; mild citrus, bread dough, quince and melon flavors make a delightful interplay in this soft, well-balanced wine. ($19)

**** (90) Running With Scissors Central Coast Chardonnay 2004 (California). This delicious chardonnay has the typical ripe and rich Central Coast style but has an elegant sense of poise; the ripe tropical and cream notes are balanced with lush oak notes; floral and core fruit aromas dominate the nose, while hints of vanilla and apple carry through on the finish. ($13)

**** (90) Kali Hart Chardonnay 2004 (California). Smooth and easy; more fruit and less oak than the previous vintage; balanced; a good food wine. ($13)

**** (90) Ningaloo Chardonnay 2005 (Australia). Medium yellow/gold with a bright, zesty bouquet that displays some yeasty accents (almost like bread dough with ginger spice) to the citrus and apple aromas; medium/full body, with tasty citrus, apple and pear flavors framed by light toast accents and a mildly buttery cloak; the medium-long finish stays clean throughout; a round, tasty wine. ($9)

**** (90) Argyle Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2003 (Oregon). Pale yellow, with aromas of sugar cookie and white dough rising with tangerine and orange zest; medium- to full-bodied, revealing almond, citrus and vanilla flavors with a hint of coconut; well-balanced and quite quaffable. ($13)

**** (90) Kumeu River Chardonnay 2004 (New Zealand). Aged in just a bit of new oak, the bright flavors of the chardonnay grape shine through; light notes of tropical fruit with a hint of hazelnut make this a wonderful, clean and refreshing choice. ($25)

**** (89) Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2003 (Australia). This wine is a fine example of how western Australian wines differ from those made on the eastern side of the continent; balanced, clean, mid-weight and extremely food friendly; devoid of mangoes and pineapples; try it with richer fish such as salmon or halibut. ($19)

**** (89) Januik Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay 2004 (California). This chardonnay demonstrates great structure and balance; pear and citrus flavors with a very creamy texture; a fresh finish with hints of vanilla and mineral flavors. ($30)

**** (89) Milton Park South Eastern Australia Chardonnay 2004 (Australia). Light gold, with a light bouquet of apple and citrus aromas and some lemony notes in the background; medium-bodied and round on the palate, with nice richness and excellent mouth feel; delightful citrus flavors pervade the palate in a rich style that never gets heavy-handed; it sharpens up beautifully on the finish. ($10)

**** (90) Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2004 (New Zealand). A clean, silky chardonnay, without barrel maturation; a delightful wine. ($15)

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**** (88) Edna Valley Chardonnay 2004 (California). A dry chardonnay with an excellent balance of fruit, oak, and acidity; a great food wine at the right price. ($18)

All-star chardonnays.

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